Correlation, Causation, Coincidence: Part Twenty-Two

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Yes, we’re still skipping over a lot.

So the cylinder heads came back from the specialist, and they looked great. The springs and seats and seals and ports and the rest, all good to go. The surface of the block was fine, so after minor cleanup we fitted the copper gaskets and torqued down the high-strength head bolts.

Assembly lube went on all the valvetrain bits, from the Lunati cam to the Crower roller lifters to the fancy Comp pushrods to the Jessel rockers. We set the valve lash following our previous method, and diligently checked again after some full cam rotations. We double-double checked the clearance on the numbers 4 and 6 cylinders that’d had the problems, but all was pleasingly consistent and boring. 

Intake manifold, on.

This seems like a great time to do a compression check; before the throttle body goes on.

compression check

Well that’s sub-optimal.

Then we asked ourselves…

What if the loose pushrods on 4 & 6 during our initial running prevented those two cylinders from experiencing ‘strong combustion’?  They were certainly colder than the rest of the cylinders, that’s how we first found the problem. What if running the motor had a positive effect on the compression of the cylinders that experienced combustion? Perhaps the gas ports in the heads of the piston, in concert with the heat of burning fuel and the shock of the high compression ignition, acted to free up piston rings just in those cylinders that actually ran?   

Hypothesis: running the motor with good-functioning cylinders 4 & 6 will improve the compression measurements in those cylinders.

Our cunning plan

We’ll test this hypothesis by continuing to assemble the motor to get it to the point where we can again start it; then we’ll fire it up, doing our normal checks on temperatures and pressures, and let cylinders 4 and 6 “warm up” and burn some gasoline.

Correlation, Causation, Coincidence: Part Nine

Yes, we’re skipping over a lot.

One of our explorations involved seeing if the motor could start.

Because the car had been sitting for some years, we took pains to drench all of the moving motor parts with oil first. After a few tentative motor rotations, done without spark plugs in, we set the valve clearance on all eight cylinders.

That mundane task gave us more insight into the nature of this beast. The radical roller lifter cam, acting through a set of 1.7:1  ratio rocker arms, produced prodigious valve lift: on the order of .77 inches at the valve. The springs are quite stiff, and the whole valvetrain is under tremendous forces. Finding the base circle of the cam lobs to be able to set lash was tricky; the high lift cam is also a long duration cam. And because there’s no easy way to crank the motor over with a wrench by hand, we were rotating the crankshaft by bumping the starter.

Having set all the valves, we put in fresh gas and coaxed the engine into life. Even with our auxiliary mufflers plugged into the headers, it was horrendously loud. During the initial running, we did determine that two cylinders on the right hand bank were colder than the rest and we shut it off to determine why. Under the valve cover … a mystery.  Both the intake and exhaust rockers for cylinders four and six were loose—free of their pushrods, which were accordingly bouncing around free. The ends of the four pushrods were mushed up pretty badly, as they’d been hitting the rocker arm adjustment cups. 

All the other rockers on both banks were fine. But those four rockers in the center of the right bank were all loose, and all the related pushrods were damaged.  There followed a considerable amount of self-doubt and process-doubt and theorizing and … to no avail: we never reached a satisfactory conclusion of the inquiry, and never reached understanding of the cause.

But everything we’d removed in the quest was overhauled to a high standard before it went back on. The pushrods were replaced en masse with thicker-walled units with more relief (a.k.a. “layback”) around their ball ends. The new pushrods look to have more tolerance for the extreme lift in the valvetrain and its accompanying rocker arm geometry.

 

The ‘fire rings’ at the top of the cylinders

Verifying top dead center on cylinder 1
The ‘undercut’ ends on the new pushrods

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Correlation, Causation, Coincidence: Part One

While the Flying Pickle drivetrain is re-examined and re-fitted and re-inforced, we’ve acquired a new (to us) land speed racing car. This is a late 70’s Buick Skyhawk, a first cousin to the Chevy Monza with which more people are familiar.  The Skyhawk has a small-block Chevy engine, hooked to a four-speed manual transmission and a Dana rear end. It all sounds so regular compared to the SAAB.

But stand by. The more you look at the car, the more unusual it seems. For instance, under the hood, the valve cover and intake manifold shapes look nothing like a normal small-block Chevy. They also don’t look like a factory Buick V8. In fact… wth is this thing?

To answer that, we must mention the Grand National; this mid-Eighties muscle car used a Buick V6 engine with a performance-oriented cylinder head design. The intake and exhaust runners were all identically shaped, and identically located vis-a-vis their respective intake and exhaust valves, very unlike the standard cylinder heads that GM was producing across its V8 engine families.

Some innovated racers hatched a plan to build a set of “Buick V6 style” style heads for Chevrolet V8s, and thus the “Dart Buick Heads” were born.  Used only for racing, the heads allowed much greater airflow and combustion chamber flame spread than existing Chevy heads and so had a moment in the sun – but sanctioning body rules put a stop to the fun pretty quickly, and relegated Dart-headed small blocks to niche classes in drag racing and circle track.

Eventually the Gen III Chevrolet motors (the “LS” style) arrived with Buick V6 style port layouts, and the LS motors now dominate hod rodding.

So this Skyhawk is a bit of an anachronism – but a pretty cool bit. The motor has the most extreme valve lift and duration that we’ve ever encountered, and an 8650 rpm redline to boot. It’s said to have “at least” 14:1 compression. And aside from whisperings and rumors, we know almost nothing more about it, so our first tasks are investigation and research.

 

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Speaking of Spares

Tarmac rallies can be hard on tires. Strike that; tarmac rallies are hard on tires. The Newfoundland roads take it a step further than that-the Rock’s stages have hazards for wheels as well.

The best approach is to avoid all the hazards, of course. But just in case you don’t, be sure to bring the two spare tires allowed by the organizers. Ideally those tires would already be mounted on wheels, ready to bolt onto the car.

When we Targa’d in 2015, the station wagon easily held both our spares; in 2016, the coupe could carry only one spare inside, strapped down behind the front seats. But this year, in the Cayman, there’s just no room in the cabin for a spare… you’d have to run without a co-driver and use the passenger seat for tire haulage. And that won’t work on a stage.

How about putting a mounted spare in the frunk?

How ’bout not, says this picture.

But you simply must carry at least one ready-to-go spare. Targa runs all day, and you are never close to a commercial area. If you’re blessed with a service crew (we are not), you may not be close to them.

You simply must carry one with you.

Well then, if we must…

Now the hood closes at least. That’s a used 991 hood, by the way; same part number.

Call it a “rain shield”.

Slightly less offensive in Racing Yellow. But it still needs something.

Ah, that’s better. That’s a proper rally car look.

Under the bulge, the spare is secured with a couple tether points in the frunk walls and a long surcingle of nylon strapping. The jack and torque wrench (118 lbs-ft!) are nearby.

Last minute changes

We’ve been using a Timewise “A box” rally computer for many years. It’s what we successfully ran in both our previous Targa campaigns.

At a recent snow rally, though, some folks with app-based rally tools did quite well; well enough that we took a closer look at the tool that had performed best at that rally.

The tool’s development is centered in Spain, and is apparently driven by local demand (which suggests to me that if I were to emigrate, Spain is a place where I could fit in-they must rally a lot).

An interesting feature is that the measurement of distance can be done via GPS. If its measurements were accurate enough, that would reduce the problems of wheel spin and slip that face us with our wheel-driven sensors.

We gave the tool a three-day check out on the recent Nor’wester rally in Washington state. The app’s philosophy and approach are very different than the Timewise’s, and our A-box habits only partially suited the tool-so we were also using the three days to set some new habits.

Aich. The three day test revealed that the tool isn’t ready to supplant the Timewise, or maybe we’re not ready for the tool, or maybe a bit of both. So our rather extensive preparations to be able to run the app in the car had to be excised, and new preparations for running the Timewise installed, quick-sharp.

We’ve done that Timewise install in other cars a couple times before, at least. And both computers can use the same sensors. So we were counting thousandths of miles in the Porsche a full day before the car had to leave on its cross-continent journey. <grimace>

Things you never want to use

A non-recreational parachute.

A fire extinguisher, except when you’re training.

A snake bite kit.

A towing eye for your race car.

And yet all of these things need to be top quality, well maintained, and ready for immediate use.

A lot of the chassis and structural elements in the Cayman are aluminum. These are engineered closely to their projected loads and stresses. In the rear bumper area, there are not a lot of heavy duty attachment points for a towing eye.

Oh, Porsche provided one, in a suitably robust location – but they also expected that it won’t be used often. So the location is accessed behind the license plate. That works great on a race track, because there are no license plates on the car.

But rally uses public roads for transits. So license plates are a must; but still, when you want to use the rear towing eye, it’s gonna be a non-calm situation. Then you have to pull off the rear plate?

Nope.

The nice round hole in the aluminum plate comes from a “gasket punch” originally used in some heavy industrial setting. It came into my hands through a local auction shopper.

Quoth he, “I never thought I would find a use for these.”

Need lots of (types of) power

Inside the cabin, we’re adding a bunch of devices:

  • Android tablet for the rally software
  • Rabbit Pro box for GPS and wheel speed sensors
  • Dashcam
  • helmet intercom
  • Rallysafe tracker
  • A smartphone for the driver’s display

Naturally, there’s no universal standard for this stuff. We have two USB-C consumers, two 12V units, an ATM06-2S plug, and a plain-old USB-A. Oh! And the shielded three wire cables for the wheel speed sensors, plus the large gauge static drain wire.

Hope Renee wasn’t planning on putting anything else in the glove box. Here’s a little tray with supplies for four of the seven devices.

 

Sidewalls

The Targa Newfoundland registration materials include an outright declaration that you shouldn’t run a tire aspect ratio less than 40. Lower aspect ratios are better for ultimate steering and cornering performance, but we won’t be on a race track. We’ll be on country roads, and in neighborhoods, and on moderate arterials within towns. There are potholes, broken pavement, frost heaves, nooks, crannies, cracks, rough patched places, the lot. Heck, that set of hazards also describes the 3500 miles of US roads between here and St. Johns.

So this project skews the tire-and-wheel formula away from circuits and toward “normal roads”; that is to say, “rally roads”.  We want more sidewall!

The Cayman, even with its large front brakes, can fit 18 inch wheels. Porsche even sells a factory accessory set of 18s, mounted with Pirelli snow tires. Having the specs of that accessory set, I duplicated the wheel widths and offsets onto a set of Made in Spain Braid Wheels. I paid the $376 customs duty with a smile; I’m sure the Spaniards will send me a check soon.

The tires are high-performance all seasons, in the identical sizes of the factory accessory set. The UTOG Treadwear rating is a 540; somehow I doubt we’re going to reach the mileage that that rating usually implies.

Here’s an 18″ front with the all season 45 aspect ratio versus the OE 20″ with a 35 aspect ratio tire.  Mr. Dunlop would be proud.

 

Screens

The Cayman’s engine is amidships, but its radiators are upfront. Porsche must think that these cars live on a racetrack, cause there’s really no grill over any of the three front radiators. But off courses, the roads are littered with rocks, and metal debris, and the odd low-flying bird, and the gaping maws of the radiator inlet started looking like intake scoops to me. I was concerned.

I got some nice metal honeycomb grill material and was going to fabricate my own protective grills.

But I soon realized the most effective way to do that would be to remove the front bumper. Then I didn’t wanna remove the front bumper 🙁

Aftermarket to the rescue. I’m not the only one that wants those grills. These came from England, in like four days…and they pretty much snapped in.  Maybe not immediately, but Josh methodically got to the right technique for it.

The installation also reminded me that my friends have higher standards for fit-and-finish than I do. I’m … more of a tractor mechanic than a supercar wrench. I take comfort in my continuing opportunities to improve. 

Red flashes good

The Hall Effect sensors we’re using come from a rally savant in Spain. One nice touch that he includes is an indicator light—on the sensor itself—which tells you it’s working.

See, there are several ways to assemble this kind of system incorrectly. (I’ve tried most of the incorrect ways…)  Once you’ve done that to yourself, and skipped the testing because “I know it’s right”, only to find yourself at the rally without a odometer, you’ll never skip the testing again.

So when you’re mounting these sensors, putting the magnets in place, aligning the barrels of the sensors to the face-plane of the magnets, adjusting the gap distance, … your testing can take place under the car. All you need do is power the Rabbit box, spin the wheel (or brake disk, in this case), and watch for the lights.